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Matt Wilder Sends 5.14 Trad Route on Devil's ThumbThe Devil's Thumb, sometimes called Toponas, its Indian name, poses high above Boulder, Colorado, on the southeast ridge of Bear Peak. The crooked digit, usually climbed by a short, amenable route (5.7) up its east side, offers an imposing north wall of overhanging sandstone sliced by diagonal... |
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What's the Best American Climbing Area? Vote Now!What's the best American climbing area? I posted a poll last week on the About.com Climbing Forum. Go there and cast your ballot for your favorite. It's hard to decide which is the best climbing area in the United States. Lots of excellent climbing areas scatter around this vast country. Back ... |
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UIAA Releases New Braking Device Standards for Climbing GearThe UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) Safety Commission recently released its first safety standards for braking devices used for belaying and rappelling after working with device manufacturers over the last ten years. The standards include parameters for device performan... |
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Learn How to Rig a Carabiner Brake for RappellingYou're out climbing in Yosemite Valley and five pitches up your latest route you take your belay and rappel device off your harness to pull the rope out after belaying your buddy up the last pitch. Before you know it, it's slipped from your hand and you see the device bouncing down the wall bel... |
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October's New Hard Routes in Wales, Germany, and FranceOctober's been a good month so far for European climbers. This time of the year in Europe is generally dry and mild with cooler temperatures which are perfect for hard cranking. In North Wales, 52-year-old Stevie Haston returned to Craig Dorys at the Lleyn Peninsula and climbed two more major ... |
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Desert Climber Kyle Copeland Dies in Salt Lake CityKyle Copeland, a prolific desert climber, died in Salt Lake City on October 3 in Salt Lake City after battling Crohn's Disease for over 20 years. While I didn't know Kyle well, mostly just in passing, he was a friend to lots of my friends including Jimmie Dunn, Mark Rolofson, and Eric Bjø... |
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